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#How to use contax s2 portable#many of them have quite good lenses and are even more portable than your NEX-5N. i might add that since you shoot primarily digital and expect it to take a while to find a film camera to use with your contax lenses, you might consider looking for a small and cheap fixed lens rangefinder to play with while you wait. Tri-X 400 it is, but first I need a camera and it will probably take a while. Thanks! i'll probably use my NEX to check metering as i start out.Īnd thank you too for the film info. I would recommend that you use +1 with negative film. I would compare the metering to that of the A900 on which I had to dial in +2/3 EV almost permanently. The Aria like other Contax bodies are designed to meter for slide film and tend to underexpose, especially when there are specular light sources in the frame. Sebboh, be careful with the exposure too. it also seems to have much clearer corners than the fx-3, which i assume is due cost cutting somewhere in the optical path of the fx-3 after the mirror. as far as the viewfinder goes, it is not particularly large or bright compared to my go to film camera the minolta xd-11 or even the fx-3, but it has much better 'pop' into focus than the fx-3 and maybe even a bit more pop than the xd-11. the real test will be when i see the film. i've got some film and batteries in now and it appears to be functioning fine. i don't take film shooting seriously enough to learn what i should. You'll get much more knowledgeable opinions if you look through the film thread. from what i see of other peoples work i suspect i would prefer reala to ektar, ektar always seems to greenish to me. I haven't shot with any slower color films or slide film in forever. superia has larger grain though and does not handle underexposure near as well. fuji superia is fair bit cheaper and has very pleasing (and similar) color to my eyes (though it can overemphasize red in peoples faces). #How to use contax s2 skin#portra i shoot because i like it's understated colors (especially skin tones) and it has a lot of latitude. ![]() i'm sure t-max is actually better in most measurable ways. i think i probably just use tri-x because i'm used to it and i think of it's grain and tones when i think of b&w photography. I use mostly tri-x and portra (mostly 400 but occasionally 160). #How to use contax s2 free#In fact the cams were trouble free except for the fragile rubber covering that tended to get damaged easily, and the VF was not as bright as other Contax cameras, which I'll have to admit are super bright anyway I have owned maybe 3 Aria bodies at different times, and never had a problem with the electronics. As you note, the VF is awesome, only bested by that of the mightly and massive RTS III. Being a late-era model from Kyocera (Japan), the prospect of breakage seems reasonably low (and even then, repairable). #How to use contax s2 manual#No manual advance, of course, but the motorized mechanisms are smooth and quiet, including mirror movement. The superstructure is metal and the plastic shell is solid as a rock. now to get some batteries and find out if it actually works.Ĭongrats! Contax Aria is my favorite D/SLR (and I have a few). it's only a bit bigger than my minolta xd-11 too! not sure how i feel about the lack a of film advance lever, and definitely don't like the inability to take pictures without a battery. it's plastic, but still feels pretty solid with none of the creaking and flexing the fx-3 had. Still need to get batteries in it to test it, but it feels much nicer with the 35 and the optics of the viewfinder are much better. I actually just got a contax aria on a whim despite my general distrust of electronic cameras (especially german ones), because i've been unhappy with the handling of my fx-3 with the c/y 35/1.4 (also cause it was only $70). ![]() ![]() Do you have any recommendation, what are you using and why if you dont mind me asking? BW for sure and I think I'll be looking for tri-X. ![]() I am in no hurry and trying to get an idea what film to use. ![]()
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